Display shows E4 and the refrigerator may not defrost, leading to ice buildup on the evaporator and poor cooling.
Safety Warning
This repair may involve working with high voltage components or water connections. Always unplug the appliance before removing any panels.
If you are not confident in your ability to perform this repair safely, we strongly recommend contacting a professional technician.
Possible Causes
How to Fix / Troubleshooting
Safety first: Unplug the refrigerator before any disassembly. Beware of sharp metal edges and hot components after recent operation.
Initial action:
- If there is heavy frost on the rear panel inside the freezer, perform a full manual defrost: unplug the unit, open doors, and allow all ice to melt. Place towels to catch water. Do not use knives or heat guns.
Component checks (for experienced DIYers):
- Access the evaporator: Remove drawers and the rear inner panel to expose the evaporator and defrost heater.
- Test the heater: Disconnect heater terminals and measure resistance. A typical heater will show a finite resistance (e.g., 50–300 Ω). Infinite resistance indicates an open heater that must be replaced.
- Check defrost thermostat/thermal fuse: With the evaporator cold (below freezing), the thermostat should read near 0 Ω. If it remains open, replace it.
- Inspect wiring: Look for burnt connectors, discolored insulation, or broken wires between heater, thermostat, and main PCB.
Reassembly and test: Replace any failed components, reassemble the panels, and restore power. Monitor for normal frost pattern and absence of E4 over several days.
Note: If heater and thermostat test good, the main control board's defrost relay or circuitry may be faulty and should be diagnosed and replaced by a professional.
Repair Difficulty
Required Part
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