Display shows dH; refrigerator or freezer may be warm; frost or ice buildup visible on evaporator cover.

Safety first: Unplug the refrigerator before accessing the evaporator area or defrost components. Use only low heat when defrosting ice to avoid damage.

Step 1 – Inspect for heavy frost:

• Open the freezer and remove drawers or shelves as needed.
• Check the rear interior panel for heavy frost or ice buildup.
• If the panel is heavily frosted, the defrost system is likely not working.

Step 2 – Manual defrost (temporary fix):

• Unplug the refrigerator and leave doors open for 24–48 hours to allow all ice to melt. Place towels to catch water.
• This may restore airflow temporarily but does not fix the underlying problem.

Step 3 – Access the evaporator and defrost components:

• With the unit unplugged and ice melted enough to remove the panel, take off the rear freezer panel.
• Locate the defrost heater (usually a glass or metal element at the bottom or woven through the evaporator) and the defrost thermostat/bimetal clipped to the coil.

Step 4 – Test the defrost heater and thermostat:

• Use a multimeter to check continuity of the heater. It should show continuity; an open reading indicates a failed heater.
• Test the defrost thermostat for continuity when cold (below its cut-in temperature). If open when cold, it is defective.
• Replace any failed components with GE-compatible parts.

Step 5 – Check the defrost thermistor and control:

• Locate the defrost thermistor (sensor) attached to the evaporator tubing.
• Test its resistance at known temperatures per the tech sheet. Replace if out of spec.
• If heater, thermostat, and thermistor are good, the main control board may not be initiating defrost cycles and may need replacement.

When to call a technician: If you are not comfortable testing electrical components or if dH returns after replacing obvious failed parts, schedule service with a qualified technician.