Freezer runs but does not get cold enough; temperature stays above 10–20°F
Safety Warning
This repair may involve working with high voltage components or water connections. Always unplug the appliance before removing any panels.
If you are not confident in your ability to perform this repair safely, we strongly recommend contacting a professional technician.
Possible Causes
How to Fix / Troubleshooting
Safety: Unplug the freezer before cleaning coils or removing panels. Avoid bending refrigerant tubing.
Steps to improve cooling:
- Check condenser coils: Locate the condenser coils (underneath or on the back). If covered in dust, vacuum thoroughly with a brush attachment. GE freezers with rear coils may require removing a rear panel.
- Verify condenser fan operation: With power on and compressor running, confirm the GE condenser fan motor is spinning and moving air across the coils. If not running or noisy, replace the fan motor.
- Inspect evaporator frost pattern: Unplug the unit, remove interior rear panel, and examine the evaporator. A light, even frost is normal. A solid block of ice or only a small section frosted indicates a problem.
- Address heavy frost: If the coil is encased in ice, suspect a defrost system failure (heater, thermostat, or control). Manually defrost with towels and a hair dryer on low, then test and replace the GE defrost heater or defrost thermostat as needed.
- Suspect sealed system: If only a small part of the coil frosts and the rest is warm, the system may be low on refrigerant or restricted. This requires a certified technician with EPA certification to repair.
Note: Always ensure adequate clearance around the freezer for ventilation and avoid overpacking shelves, which can block airflow.
Repair Difficulty
Required Part
We may earn a commission from links on this page.