Display shows E3 and the refrigerator may not defrost; frost accumulates on the evaporator and rear wall.
Safety Warning
This repair may involve working with high voltage components or water connections. Always unplug the appliance before removing any panels.
If you are not confident in your ability to perform this repair safely, we strongly recommend contacting a professional technician.
Possible Causes
How to Fix / Troubleshooting
Safety warning: Always disconnect power before accessing the evaporator or heater. The defrost heater operates at mains voltage.
Steps:
- Access the evaporator: Remove freezer drawers/shelves and the rear interior panel to expose the evaporator coil and defrost heater.
- Inspect visually: Look for burnt spots on the heater, melted insulation, or a tripped/bulged thermal fuse or bimetal thermostat attached to the coil.
- Test the heater: Disconnect the heater leads and measure resistance. A typical heater will show a finite resistance (e.g., 50–300 Ω depending on model). An open circuit (OL) indicates a failed heater.
- Test the thermal fuse/bimetal: With the coil cold (below freezing), the defrost thermostat should read near 0 Ω (closed). If it remains open, it is faulty.
- Replace faulty components: Install a Sharp-compatible defrost heater and/or defrost thermostat/thermal fuse as needed. Ensure all connections are tight and insulated.
- Check wiring and PCB: Inspect the harness from the heater assembly to the main PCB for burns or breaks. Verify the defrost connector is fully seated on the control board.
If E3 persists with a good heater circuit, the main control board’s defrost relay or triac may be defective and should be replaced by a professional.
Repair Difficulty
Required Part
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