Freezer shows E4 and may not defrost; ice accumulates on evaporator and rear wall, fan may become noisy or blocked by ice.
Safety Warning
This repair may involve working with high voltage components or water connections. Always unplug the appliance before removing any panels.
If you are not confident in your ability to perform this repair safely, we strongly recommend contacting a professional technician.
Possible Causes
How to Fix / Troubleshooting
Safety first: Unplug the freezer. The defrost heater and wiring are near sharp metal and can be wet; wear insulated gloves and avoid contact with water.
Step-by-step checks:
- 1. Manually defrost: Remove food, unplug the unit, and leave the door open until all ice on the rear wall and evaporator melts. This will temporarily restore airflow and cooling.
- 2. Access evaporator and heater: Remove the interior rear panel to expose the evaporator. The defrost heater is usually a metal or glass-encased element clipped under or around the evaporator.
- 3. Test heater continuity: Disconnect heater leads and measure resistance with a multimeter. A typical heater will show a finite resistance (tens to hundreds of ohms). An open reading indicates a failed heater.
- 4. Check defrost thermostat / thermal fuse: Locate the defrost thermostat or thermal fuse attached to the evaporator tubing. Test for continuity at freezer temperature (it should be closed when cold). Replace if open.
- 5. Inspect wiring: Follow the heater and thermostat wires back to the harness and PCB. Repair any burnt, brittle, or broken wires.
- 6. PCB / relay check: If heater and thermostat test OK, the main control PCB may not be sending power to the heater. This requires live testing and is best done by a professional.
When to call a technician: If you are not experienced with electrical testing or if the PCB or relay is suspected, contact a Gram service technician.
Repair Difficulty
Required Part
We may earn a commission from links on this page.